The Little Wisdoms of Bushmans Kloof

Bushmanskloof Little Wisdoms


Man has long gone to the mountains for solace and inspiration. John Muir was a great advocate of this. “I am losing precious days. I am degenerating into a machine for making money. I am learning nothing in this trivial world of men. I must break away and get out into the mountains to learn the news,” said the Scottish-American naturalist, author and environmental philosopher. Muir was one of the first people in the world to advocate for the preservation of wildernesses.

Among the world’s other conservationists, those aiming to create and preserve a corner of nature that cannot be touched, those reserving mountainsides as homes for animals and sanctuaries for man, is Bushmans Kloof. A wilderness reserve and wellness retreat in the Cederberg mountains of South Africa.

Bushmans Kloof goes beyond “kindling enthusiasm, making every nerve quiver, filling every pore and cell of us,” as Muir writes. It is a place of wisdom – little wisdoms with big impact. Below are ten #bklittlewisdoms from our most recent visit to the reserve, as celebrated on our Instagram

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The 10 Little Wisdoms of Bushmans Kloof

1. Be here now

Three simple words. But perhaps the greatest epiphany you’ll ever have – and one I came to through the work of spiritual teacher, Ram Dass. Be here now.

Like the Buddhist philosophy of mindfulness, it is a reminder that all stress and fear and trouble comes from not being here, where we are in this moment. It comes from having our heads in yesterday or tomorrow. When we retreat into ourselves in the present, all that crumbles away and we are free to truly see and experience life.

The environment is perfectly set for this at Bushmans Kloof – during a massage, the therapist’s touch bringing you into your body, or while cycling with the zebras, in the seeming middle of nowhere (or rather, now here). 

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2. Lessons from humanity’s earliest artists

The ancient wisdom of the Bushmen is hidden on the robust surface of the overhangs and caves of the Cederberg – in the form of art. Bushmans Kloof holds up to 130 rock art sites, some of which date back 10,000 years. These creations, made using oxide pigments and as a way of depicting the tribes’ spiritual and cultural lives, serve as a portal to this ancient wisdom. 

On our visit to the sites, guide Jannie explained the many lessons present in the images and in the lives of their creators – lessons in natural healing, community, sustainable living and leadership, for example these seven that the Step Up Leader learnt from the Bushman tribes of north Africa.

  1. Speak little. Observe a lot.
  2. When the group wins, everyone eats.
  3. Victory only happens through team.
  4. Everyone prospers because the goal is to take care of the group.
  5. We are responsible for people, even those that are not part of our formal community.
  6. Focus on what truly matters.
  7. Live in the present and live happily.

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3. Sometimes strangers make the best of friends

Dining at Bushmans Kloof’s Kadoro Lodge, ‘Kadoro’ meaning ‘tinderbox of stories’, the stories flow as the name implies, around the campfire, and inside around the dinner table with the other guests and guides. With new faces and new tales, in a rustic, secluded cottage in the heart of the reserve, the experience is quite remarkable. Outside, the milkyway reminds you of how it feels to be wholly stumped by the grandiosity of the world, a world that’s always there (and that is better when shared).

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4. “Too often we underestimate the power of a touch…

…a smile, a kind word, a listening ear, an honest compliment, or the smallest act of caring, all of which have the potential to turn a life around.” ― Leo Buscaglia

Take the time to run your hands through the plants in the gardens at the reserve, praise the men and women who have tended to them so well and in such a remote environment. Savour the meals and be quicker to thank than to complain. Consider the lives of the people that make your experience possible and honour them with your time or through Packing for a Purpose… Don’t underestimate your role.

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Bushmans Kloof

5. Make time for a little monkey play

After all, in the words of Roald Dahl, “A little nonsense now and then is cherished by the wisest men.” A wise lesson from the baboons of the Cederberg…

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Monkeys

6. “Relax your body, and the rest of you will lighten up.” 

– Haruki Murakami.

If you’re struggling with number one on our list, start with the body and the mind will follow… The Bushmans Kloof experience is all about relaxation, of body and mind, from the freedom of roaming the bush with no threat of predators to the riverside spa. 

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Little Wisdoms of Bushmans Kloof

7. Accepting our differences

Many different things have been said about difference… From the negative – “If you are different from the rest of the flock, they bite you.” ― Vincent O’Sullivan – to the positive – “We all do better when we work together. Our differences do matter, but our common humanity matters more.” ― Bill Clinton.

Either way, much can be learnt about accepting our differences from the animal kingdom, from wildernesses like Bushmans Kloof, where different species live side by side, in harmony.

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8. “What is this life if, full of care, we have no time to stand and stare…

…No time to stand beneath the boughs / And stare as long as sheep or cows. / No time to see, when woods we pass, / Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass. / No time to see, in broad daylight, / Streams full of stars, like skies at night. / No time to turn at Beauty’s glance, / And watch her feet, how they can dance. / No time to wait till her mouth can / Enrich that smile her eyes began. / A poor life this is if, full of care, / We have no time to stand and stare.” – Leisure by William H Davies.

Take the time to see in the morning and watch the coming of night, and in between, in the rush of day, slow down and take a proper look at your surroundings.

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9. “Tell me to what you pay attention and I will tell you who you are.”

So said Jose Ortega y Gassett. You know about the state of Greece and the split of Bennifer, but do you know the names of these plants?

Be aware of what you give your attention to… It is what defines your life.

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10. “Time is the raw material of creation… 

Our final little wisdom, inspired by the hard-working Bushmans Kloof Riel dancers and band. Meet the people behind our last lesson in our blog, Hope is a good thing, maybe the best of things. In the words of Kevin Ashton, from Creative People Say No…

“Time is the raw material of creations. Wipe away the magic and myth of creating and all that remains is work: the work of becoming expert through study and practice, the work of finding solutions to problems and problems with those solutions, the work of trial and error, the work of thinking and perfecting, the work of creating. Creating consumes. It is all day, every day. It knows neither weekends nor vacations. It is not when we feel like it. It is habit, compulsion, obsession, vocation. The common thread that links creators is how they spend their time. No matter what you read, no matter what they claim, nearly all creators spend nearly all their time on the work of creation. There are few overnight successes and many up-all-night successes.” 

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Let us know what your #bklittlewisdoms are, if you’ve travelled to this part of South Africa before.

Parrot Fishing on the Yemen. Pardon. The Zambezi…

Our 10 Questions series has featured the favourite wild moments of Relais & Châteaux Africa’s adventurers. Today, I’m going to tell you about one of mine.

Everyone has their own criteria for what makes an adventure. For me, it is often about my camera and the rare moments it manages to capture. The Parrotfish Run in Zambia, the Zambezi’s Great Migration, is one such moment, and it is one wild and wonderful adventure.

After watching mokoro after mokoro glide past my deck at Royal Chundu‘s Island Lodge, Gerard and I joined them on the Zambezi, our vehicle an inflatable canoe, and Royal Chundu’s Head Guide, Sililo, or “SK”, our ‘in’.

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Richard & SK

The Parrotfish Run is a decades old tradition. Each year, from around June to August, millions of these fish are pulled downstream by the main river current. The usually serene upper reaches of the Zambezi transform into a lively harbour with women and children on the sidelines and the fishermen spread across the channels – often thigh-high in the water itself, sometimes even immersed up to their necks.

Hessah Silwebbe, GM at Royal Chundu, a lodge set on a private waterway between the two rapids where the fishing takes place, explains, “Once the fish hit the smaller rapids, they make for an easy catch for fishermen perched and waiting with their handwoven fishing baskets, made of reeds and palm tree leaves, ready to make their mark. Families set up camp along the riverbanks to take advantage of this annual event.”

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The run is an essential part of the lives of the local communities. According to SK, most of the Parrotfish caught is sold at markets either along the riverbank or further inland, providing the families with an income. There is method in the seeming madness of the flurry of fishermen, as each channel is demarcated to a specific family – so-called unwritten territorial rights exist that determine who can fish where. In order for an outsider to fish on one of these taken channels he must be hired by the family who owns it.

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SK’s family is represented here too. We head out early one June morning at sunrise, when our fingers have yet to thaw. He takes me to his channel where his half-brother, Richard, is at work. There is a saying on the Zambezi… “Live by the river, die by the river.” This is the law of the land here. The river serves as both a life provider and a reminder of that life’s fragility. The same river that will provide SK’s family with sustenance for the year took their father years before. There is a reason the hippo is considered Africa’s most dangerous animal.

This is the Parrotfish Run. And our journey starts with a scarecrow…

The Scarecrow

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The task of the scarecrow, dressed to resemble a person, is to keep the otters and other riverine animals away from the handwoven traps.

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Above: The busy ‘harbour’

 

Zambezi Cruising

Above: Often whole families pick up their lives to join the fishermen and can be seen manoeuvring up the Zambezi to their river channel in mekoro laden with supplies, including food and family pets.
Below: Richard brings in his traps to empty their catch on his demarcated islet. With several of the baskets filling his channel, it is a back-and-forth journey, angling often against the rapids and calling for some cowboy-wrangling from outside the mokoro as much as in.

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Richard

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Above: Richard returns to his campsite, baskets in tow. The night’s fire – lit to ward off hippo and other nocturnal creatures – is mere smoke now. He pats down the basket to release the fish into the mokoro.

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Above: Each basket can hold around 25 kilograms of fish. The Parrotfish are picked out and bagged, the baskets taken back out into the river for the next catch. The rounded head of the Zambezi Parrotfish is what gives it its name.

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Above: The day’s work continues until sun down. Richard returns to the river, as he will, day and night, until the end of the season in the last few days of July.

Discover the Parrotfish Run for yourself at Royal Chundu.

The Dignity of Dereck Joubert – 10 Questions

“The more you learn about the dignity of the gorilla, the more you want to avoid people,” said Dian Fossey, touching on one lesser known law of nature. One many of us prescribe to. One known as Nature’s Catch 22: a law of love and hate. The rule works on the basis that the more time you spend in nature, the less attractive the civilised world begins to look.

It is only natural to have your heart pulled on by the wild as she begins to open up to you. The more moments you get to share with her, with a leopard protecting its legacy in an ancient baobab tree, for example, or a whale calf swimming alongside its mother, so closely you can imagine them holding fins… It is only natural to want to shun the world you come from in favour of the wilder, purer, more dignified world…

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Image: Beverly Joubert

But then, someone comes along, a Dian Fossey or a Jane Goodall, and proves that dignity is not entirely lost on mankind. Someone like Dereck Joubert, who unravels your entire way of thinking in a second. Someone who takes a simple phrase that has defined so much of your life… I love not man the less, but nature more… and spins it on its head. Reminds you that nature is not separate from us, it is us. That the dignity of a gorilla is everywhere, in all things. And that all society needs is a little reminder…

Like Fossey and Goodall, the work of National Geographic filmmaker and Explorer-in-Residence and co-founder of The Great Plains Conservation, Dereck Joubert, together with his partner in the wild, Beverly Joubert, is exactly that reminder. In this week’s 10 Questions, Dereck presents a whole new Law of Nature (see Question 8), through his characteristic honesty and insight.

Dereck Joubert in Botswana

10 Questions with Dereck Joubert

1. Five important things to remember when living in the wilderness?

  1. Try not to panic, a cool head always gets you through.
  2. Panic when necessary, action is often needed, quickly and fast!
  3. There is very little to fear in the bush. People in cities do worse things to one another than any animal does.
  4. Breathe deeply, look around, soak it in, because tomorrow you might be on a plane to some city somewhere.
  5. Fight for integrity, yours, nature’s against extinction, against corruption, against greed. Everyone who wants to harm nature is the enemy, so fight them with wisdom.

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Image: Beverly Joubert, taken in Botswana’s Savuti region

2. Five things being a filmmaker has taught you about yourself, life and love?

  1. No matter how bad it is today, if you consider one day writing your memoir at 99 years old, consider if this moment will even make it into that final book. Is it a 5/10 or higher in the scale of hardships in life. You will usually find that it is low, and not that bad. That gives you perspective. I can’t even recall how many times I’ve had malaria or nearly died. If your answer is that this moment is a 9.5 out of 10, then you know you’re in real trouble!
  2. Be in love, with the person you love… properly, as if there is no tomorrow. There may not be.
  3. Grab each day as if you were 20, or 99 there is no time to lose, no adrenaline too high to waste.
  4. Work harder. I add this because in those ridiculous sayings someone always says ‘no one ever wished they had worked harder in life.’ BS. Work hard, because having drive and passion is the fuel that keeps the engine running at a fine pitch. Lazy people have lazy minds.
  5. See life as if it is perfectly framed. Look for the good light, best composition, framing, because it will make you view life in a different, more perfect way. It makes life better if you can see perfection in an image you make, even if the image is of a slaughtered elephant, or people caught in rubble after an earthquake. If you don’t (as a filmmaker) live to make the moment inside the frame perfect, the content will get to you and mess you up.
Discover more about love in the wild in CBS News’ Married life in a tent. How do they do it?

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Leopard of the Okavango Delta at sunset. By Beverly Joubert

3. How did you get involved in filmmaking and conservation – what drove you and continues to drive you?

Saving the world. From when I was young I knew that I needed to play an important role in life, not a spectator’s one. Filmmaking has a huge influence on the world, so we use it to influence people against destroying nature and to live a better life. Films can turn the world against hunting and toward kindness to animals. Without looking into the eyes of a gorilla or an elephant through the medium of film, 99% of the world would not know what we are talking about and just would not care. Without conservation, nature fails. Without nature, our souls wither, ecosystems fail, culture disappears, and it takes with it our integrity, our self worth, our common drive to strive for better. The eternal battle within each of us is mirrored in the way we interact with nature. If we lose this battle we don’t just lose animals, or litter a few highways. We lose our souls. I had a brother who was an artist, and from a young age I watched him create magical images from a brush and oil pigment. He made the world come alive through his interpretation. I hope I do the same, but with different tools. This is what excites me and has always inspired me.

African Elephant (Loxodonta Africana)

Discover more about the Jouberts’ conservation work through the Great Plains Conservation, which along with several initiatives, includes three conservation-minded lodges – Zarafa Camp, Mara Plains and Ol Donyo. Image by Beverly Joubert

4. Favourite part about living in the bush and your wilderness home in Botswana?

Waking before dawn and feeling the crisp night air give way to the warmth of dawn as the darkness loses that battle to crimson light. I like the mist that creeps over the Okavango Delta and gives lions and buffalo the opportunity to play hide and seek in the nearly liquid blanket of white, their games of life and death being the very essence of this continent. The Okavango is a harsh but beautiful place.

5. Waving a camera in the face of Africa’s wild things must have led to a few daunting close calls.

We generally don’t wave cameras in front of animals. That is for TV personalities who want fame and reaction and usually get scratched as a result. We believe that when an animal sees and reacts to us, we have failed. Our ambition is to be invisible, wallpaper; to see, document, and be led into a magical world of acceptance. You only get this with respect and trust.

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Some filmmakers choose a different path, playing with lions, or getting up close, getting charged for the camera. If we get charged we feel as though we have failed again. It is not our way. But yes, we have had many interesting interludes, because of foolishness, over-eagerness, other people’s folly. We have been charged a lot, by lions that have been previously shot or hunted, hurt or pissed off. We have been attacked four times by elephants, for the same menu of reasons. I’ve been bitten three times by deadly snakes, 20 times by scorpions, had malaria at least four times, crashed a plane three times and forgotten my sense of humour at least once, that I can recall.

What races through your mind in those moments? Are you more fright, flight, or fight?

I have the ability to be very calm. My mind focuses on survival. I am fortunate to usually have Beverly nearby and so psychologically I have someone I need to take care of. I have neither fright nor flight but often fight. A charging lion can mostly be dealt with by attacking and running forward. It is my default position to stay neutral until under threat – and only then attack. I abhor bullies and usually step out to prevent bullying of any kind. What races through my mind? Interestingly, I just wrote in a film script that standing in the path of a charging elephant is mesmerising – time slows. You focus on the dance of the flapping ears and the ivory look of the toe nails as they kick up dust in front of you. You merge with the animal in a way that allows a common language of communication, and yet, I don’t communicate or project thoughts, I just am. Neutral, neither scared nor aggressive. Mostly this has worked for me. A bully or two has bruised me – it doesn’t always work out!

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Image: Beverly Joubert

6. Scariest moment encountered in the wilderness?

We are seldom scared. The wild is not out to get you. I think that nearly dying, losing consciousness and having a racing heart and lungs collapse from a double Boomslang bite may be the least pleasant experience I’ve had. But we both view each experience as just that, an experience – to absorb and hang on to, not one to get over and done with as quickly as possible. I love being in the midst of a challenge to survive. It is alive with energy. Having survived is kind of boring again. Right?

And most memorable?

Probably the time we spent with a leopard, one we found when she was 8 days old. Over the 4 years that followed she adopted us and absorbed us into her life. We were able to follow her each day. This was like a portal into a magical kingdom for us. It was a relationship like no other, where we never touched her, let her live her life and just followed. Yet she accepted us, sometimes touched us but trusted us to be there. Legadema was her name and a film and book came out about her and our lives together.

Legadema, as named by the Jouberts, meaning “Light from the Sky”, was featured in their book, Eye of the Leopard, and documentary of the same title, which won them their fifth Emmy Award for Best Achievement in Science, Nature, and Technology. Discover more about her in this TED Talk below.


7. How has your relationship with the African wild and her creatures changed over the years?

In the beginning, we were in awe of its scale and wildness, and wanted to absorb it all, take it all in, good or bad. As we did time, we came to understand that this icon (the wilderness), this over-powering, omnipotent Africa that so may fear, so many are in awe of, is fragile and on the verge of collapse. So we evolved our relationship into a nurturing, and protecting one. We spend our lives trying to understand it still, but now we convert it into action, advocacy, campaigns and battle strategy to save it. Is the fear factor still there? Never was. You don’t go in to the unknown in fear and turn it into a career. If you do, it is a short career and you leave as many do.

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Image: Mara Plains

8. There is a beautiful quote by Lord Byron that goes, “There is a pleasure in the pathless woods, There is a rapture on the lonely shore, There is society, where none intrudes, By the deep sea, and music in its roar: I love not man the less, but Nature more.” How do you find alternating between the stillness and isolation of the pathless woods and hubbub of cities, airports and conference halls?

Philosophers and poets have always retreated to nature to find themselves, to find inspiration and meaning – a much more difficult task in the clutter of humanity. We were just in New York City at the Ivory Crush in Times Square -there are few more cluttered places than that. But Beverly and I were together and where we are together is the Centre of the Universe for us. We carry Lord Byron’s love of nature within us wherever we go because nature is not a place, it is an intellectual concept. It is a doctrine that also needs defending, and that does take us into the epicenter of the problem, like surgeons when they have to operate on a cancer. They don’t cut into the places where the body is perfect. We know that Man is the problem, the largest threat, and Man gathers in the hubbub of cities. So from time to time, that is where we have to go. To perform our surgery.

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Image: Beverly Joubert

9. What is your favourite time of day in the bush and how do you to tend to start such days?

Early up, in the dark, usually between 4 am and 5 am, as we head out to catch the change in light. Nature is best when it changes. We all are. When it stays the same it stagnates. Savanna eco-systems thrive on change, as do we. Changes from summer to winter, thick forest to open grassland, night to day, alive to dead. Each of these is when energy shifts and we like to be there for each. That includes being there when lions attack and kill a buffalo. Not because it is exciting, it isn’t, but because it is pivotal, a sudden change that is symptomatic or symbolic of a change so vital. When the sun rises, we’ve usually been sitting with lions or leopards or elephants for an hour. We take mugs of tea on our drive. A dawn in camp is a wasted one for me.

10. The best adventure so far has been… the past 32 years living with, loving, exploring with Beverly. And the next adventure will be… the one we cannot describe yet, because without it being the unknown, it doesn’t really count.

Zarafa Camp


Watch our innkeeper interviews with Dereck and Beverly, shot, of course, by Dereck and Beverly, at Zarafa Camp in Botswana, as seen below, as well as Mara Plains and Ol Donyo in Kenya, all unique lodges we are so proud to have in the Relais & Châteaux family.


Tell Us

What is your greatest take-away piece from our 10 Questions with Dereck Joubert?